With only a few days of calm weather sandwiched between long periods of 25-30 SE, we had to curtail our ambition to go out to the Coral Sea atoll of Marion Reef and instead opted to do a reconnaissance trip to the inner reefs 60-70 nm east of Mackay.

We wanted to find a comfortable stop on the way to the line of Outer Reefs some 90 to 100nm offshore and for when we head out beyond the Barrier. It was also an opportunity to test our Starlink set up.

Have Starlink, will travel!

We have joined the large number of cruisers who are roaming with high speed internet connectivity wherever they are. For us it means no more “going out of range” for weeks on end while we are offshore.

We bit the bullet and ordered Starlink as soon as we left the Swain Reefs. We will retain PredictWind for route planning and weather forecast modelling but have discontinued our subscription to the very expensive and limited satellite service of Iridium Go. We have a superior satellite connection for less than we were paying. Unfortunately we have lost the PredictWind tracking of Anui on the website which would have cost too much to retain. Sorry to those who enjoyed checking up on us!

We bought the antenna and subscribed to a Mobile Regional plan which gives us unlimited coverage on the coast and at some of the nearby islands. We set up the antenna at the stern at anchor, using a rod holder from BCF, recommended by cruising friend Ross Porz, which works well. We don’t leave the antenna out permanently nor do we stay connected all day long as Starlink requires 240v power, thus the inverter to be turned on.

When going offshore our plan allows us to purchase priority data by the Gigabyte at 3.60AUD/GB. We log on once a day after 5pm to download the updated MetEye forecast, PredictWind forecasts and our emails.

Once anchored offshore on this trip, after setting up the antenna and letting it orientate itself, we had internet. We got the weather, our emails and a few comments on our website from our latest post. Chris got on to the DJI drone site which was requiring her to log in after weeks of inactivity. It works!

Next adventure: a reconnaissance trip

After over two weeks at Mackay, we were itching for more exploration. As you know, we thoroughly enjoy being on a discovery mission off the beaten track. But with only a short weather window, all we had time to do was check out a few inner reefs we had not been to before as possible stopping points on the way to more exciting destinations.

Cole Reefs

Cole Reefs are three patches of reef with a sandy strip along their northern edge. We anchored in front of the central one in 4m of water in clear sand. We got there after a very rock and rolly 60nm motor sail. After two weeks of strong wind, the ocean had not had a chance to settle and it was an uncomfortable passage. Feeling a bit under the weather, we had a rest when we arrived early in the afternoon and gave our usual snorkel a miss till morning. But we did fly the drone.

The next morning there was not a breath of wind – total glass out. The sun was out with very few clouds in the sky. It was such a contrast after two weeks of strong wind and rain, such a contrast after the rough passage from Mackay, so peaceful!

The only sounds: schools of fish occasionally jumping out, escaping a predator, and the blow of two whales logging nearby, a mother and her calf. We were willing them to drift towards our boat, whispering “come, come closer”.

We tried a snorkel. There was plenty of soft coral, regrowth after bleaching, lots of life, but lots of current too. Right next to the dinghy was an orange anemone with its dwellers, a purple Acropora, some xenia and sarcophyton… just beautiful, colourful, alive! But it was such hard work against the flow that we did not stay long nor venture far.

The verdict for Cole Reefs: easy access to a shallow sandy anchorage protected in a S to SE, suitable for an overnight stay at any of the three reefs. Lovely coral gardens, but snorkel at slack water.

Big Stevens Reef

Big Stevens is a large reef with a nook on the NE side – a very tight spot, barely big enough for Anui, but oh so spectacular. We dropped the pick in 9m of water over clear sand at high tide. We broke our own rule of 5:1 anchoring ratio. We had just over 3:1 with a short bridle to ensure we had enough swing room. With a forecast of variable wind to 10 knots, which means the light breeze can come from any direction, we were fine. In the morning we woke up stern to the reef in front of us in the aerial below – glad we did not have another 15m of chain out. As we said: tight spot! Here is a series of drone shots progressively getting further up and out:

We snorkeled around the central bommies. The underwater life was interesting, even if the water clarity was not great and you had to contend with some current. Although the coral was patchy, there were interesting brain corals and soft corals. The highlight was the quantity of big fish – different types of Coral Trout, Spotted Sweetlips, Queensland Grouper, Chinamanfish (beautiful but a species carrying a high risk of ciguatera poisoning), a Whitetip Shark or three. Wade was ready to spear but missed! Those trout were very skittish!

The verdict for the NE inlet of Big Stevens Reef: a secluded day anchorage in calm conditions, only for the brave overnight.

Robertson Reefs

We had marked two spots at Robertson Reefs, although we were unsure they would work. Unfortunately they were not suitable. What we were hoping was a large sandy patch turned out to be a sand colored rock platform. You can’t win them all, that’s why they call it exploration!

The consolation prize was that we caught a small tuna on the way. No sooner had Wade put the trolling line in, it went for it! Dinner was sorted for a few nights! Bengie was particularly curious and keen to taste it! She demanded her share each time we were preparing a meal.

With the southerly change due during the evening, we decided to head towards the Whitsunday Islands for shelter, another 60nm passage in reasonable conditions. We saw humpback whales along the way. One pod of three or four were breaching repeatedly. What a show!

We had a lot of fun, even if the trip was short. And we have added a couple of possibilities for stopovers when heading offshore from Mackay, so mission accomplished.

Now we wait for the wind to settle and the rain to ease so we can take off again! We have been boat bound for four days and cabin fever is setting in.