This week we have more wondrous explorations of Port Davey/Bathurst Harbour to share, before we exit this wilderness, round South West Cape and use the calm conditions to stop along the South Coast of Tasmania!

As we continue our circumnavigation, here is the latest update of our track:

And we have also updated the annotated satellite maps of Port Davey/Bathurst Harbour. The orange markers show our anchorages, the green ones our hikes, the blue ones places of interest we visited. We hope this makes it easier to follow our wanderings.

Bathurst Harbour

Bathurst Harbour once was a large buttongrass plain. It was flooded when the sea level rose at the end of the last ice age, about 7000 years ago. It is shallow, averaging 5 to 7 meters in depth. We mainly explored the southern part of the Harbour, anchoring at Kings Point for a few days and using the spot as a base for outings.

Kings Point

We have been hiking a lot on this trip. It is one of the pleasures of this circumnavigation and something we have not experienced for a long time. It is also a rewarding way to discover the waterways and ranges from up high. Last week we left you at Iola Bay, after Wade climbed Mt Rugby. It turns out Mt Rugby is omnipresent once you reach Bathurst Harbour. Every shot you take, it is there, dominating the landscape.

Melaleuca

Tucked into the far south-west corner of Tasmania is the tiny settlement of Melaleuca some 10kms down the Melaleuca Inlet. Originally established for tin mining by the King family, Melaleuca can only be reached by light plane, boat or by multi-day walks on the South Coast or Port Davey Tracks. It was home to Deny King – a well-known miner, bushman, naturalist and artist – from 1936 until his death in 1991. We dinghied over from Kings Point then had a wander around, following the beautiful Needwonnee Walk with Aboriginal artwork depicting the creation story of the first Tasmanian Aborigine.

A highlight while at Melaleuca was observing the critically endangered Orange-bellied Parrot. Seeing and photographing one of the world’s rarest birds was intensely satisfying. Imagine, this bird is so endangered that just less than 10 years ago when we were last there, only 20 birds had returned from the species’ annual migration to Melaleuca. In 2024, 92 returned, 64 of which were born in the wild, and 28 bred in captivity. It is a turning point for this critically endangered species which requires considerable human intervention to avoid extinction.

Mount Beattie

Our next hike while anchored at Kings Point was up Mount Beattie. It is a gradual incline along a ridge starting from Claytons Corner. It is not very far, nor very steep, yet offers beautiful views of Bathurst Harbour, the Celery Top Islands, the Bathurst Channel, and you guessed it: Mount Rugby! The track had been upgraded since we last were there, making it easier.

Moulters Inlet

Our last anchorage within Bathurst Harbour was in remote Moulters Inlet. It is very shallow in there… less than two meters, but we dared to go in for the sense of isolation in a grand landscape. With 30 knots blowing it was very blustery. However believe it or not we enjoyed listening to the wind howling, a reminder of what we normally experience in these parts! And yet the strong wind was short-lived. By dawn the next day all was quiet.

Return to Bramble Cove to climb Mt Stokes

With the likelihood of a weather window to continue our circumnavigation, we made our way back along the Bathurst Channel to Port Davey and in particular Bramble Cove. We could not help ourselves, we had to climb another hill, this time the harder but rewarding trek up Mount Stokes. It used to be called Mount Misery, not the most enticing name to encourage you to climb this quartzite mountain. However we discovered that as soon as you start, every step you take makes the effort worthwhile, with magnificent views of the waterways and surrounding ranges. We have declared Mt Stokes our favourite hike in the region.

Spain Bay & Stephens Ocean Beach

And then it was time to head to Spain Bay, our last anchorage in Port Davey. When we arrived we were the only boat there. A few hours later five other vessels had turned up from the south, the first wave of cruising yachts arriving after the end of the Wooden Boat Festival in Hobart. Time to leave! We took a final walk across from Spain Bay to the wild, expansive Stephens Beach, open to the Southern Ocean, for a look at what was awaiting us outside! We could see South West Cape in the distance!

Rounding South West Cape and onto the South Coast

We exited Port Davey mid week for another spectacular part of the voyage. Rounding South West Cape was a very different passage: we had never seen it in such calm weather. No swell, no wind, a very tame motor-sail with reflections of our hulls in the ocean! So instead of running directly back to Recherche in one long passage, we took our time, checked out coves we had never been in, and stopped for the first time at New Harbour on the exposed south coast of Tasmania. The breeze was calm and from the south initially, so we were stern to the beach, but the next day a light northerly was blowing. We just stayed there, protected, breathing the sweet smells of the bush. As the day developed we decided to move on and slowly hug the coast while we could: Cox Bight, broad and deep, Louisa Bay, a gorgeous spot to anchor in…. Lots more to see, but another time.

We have been blessed with nearly two weeks of settled weather, enabling us to explore this wilderness in conditions we had never experienced before. To us Port Davey/Bathurst Harbour is synonymous with storm force winds and tying your boat back against the shore in a cat’s cradle for protection! Not this time! Whilst relishing this magical weather window, we try not to get worried about the far-reaching effects of climate change and global warming. It is happening everywhere, and even South West Tasmania is affected.

Onto Recherche

All good things must come to an end. A strong NW change then SW gale have come with the likelihood of six meter swell… that’s more like the norm! Time to play it safe and hide around the corner.

We had a gusty, uncomfortable run past South Cape then South East Cape. The air was thick with smoke, the smell of bushfire overpowering and a sense of foreboding pervasive. North West Tasmania is burning. It is terrible to think that areas we visited just a month ago are threatened.

We kept going and are safely tucked into Cockle Creek, Recherche Bay as we publish this post.

We will be heading back to civilisation over the next week with a few friends and family to visit along the way, a fridge/freezer to get fixed, and a pussycat who’d love a walk ashore! While on the west and south coast for a month, she has not been off the boat and has been snuggling under the duvet blanket on cold days. She is the last one up in the morning, and often the first in bed in the evening!

See you in Hobart soon for a change of pace.