We are delighted we have managed to see parts of the vast Coral Sea Atoll of Lihou, one the largest atolls in the world, and the second largest in Australia, yet one of the least visited.
The atoll’s rim of reefs and cays is spread over its 120nm elongated circumference. The centre of the atoll is strewn with hundreds of bommies, some of which reach the surface. This map taken from Peter Sayre’s book Australia’s Coral Sea Islands & Marine Park gives some details.
Lihou is a place of extremes. You go from 1600m depth outside the atoll, to just a few meters depth in the shelter of a cay, from agitated ocean in the 20+knot trade winds to a reasonably protected anchorage, although there is always movement at anchor. You are surrounded by exceedingly clear turquoise water, yet there is no live coral near the anchorages, just bare rocks. Life at the cays is all about the seabirds. If you want to see coral and abundant fish life, you have to scuba dive at the deep bommies in the center of the atoll. And by the way, the entire atoll is a Marine Park and thus there is no fishing allowed.
Some of the islets offer good shelter, especially the long, elliptical, vegetated ones, with substantial reefs. We visited four cays, all located along the southern rim: Hermit Crab Islet, Diana Cay, Georgina Cay and South West Cay. The aerials give you a sense of the vastness, and how insignificant Anui looks in this wilderness.
We have enjoyed our walks ashore and seeing the amazing birdlife. Not only did we observe the usual boobies, noddies, frigatebirds and terns with their young, but we also were incredibly lucky to see a small flock of the endangered Fairy Terns. And by the way, the birds at Lihou are far more considerate than at Marion, with few unwelcome night visitors on Anui!
As well as the birds, we have also seen many Hermit Crabs, Rock Crabs and Eels in the rock pools. Here is a gallery of wildlife shots.
Our one chance at snorkeling was in turbulent water at the shipwreck of the Queen Christina which struggled in a cyclone and heavy seas in 1899 and ended up wrecked on top of the reef at the Eastern Elbow of Lihou Reef. We were there at high tide in 20 knots wind, so far from ideal conditions, but determined to see it. Here are a couple of shots.
Today we are at South West Cay, our last stop at Lihou. With a return of 30+ knot winds next week forecast to last for at least 10 days, we have decided not to go to the Diamond Islets and the Flinders Reef, which we have both been to before, and will be going back to the coast before the nasty weather hits. We’ll see where we can sail to comfortably. See you back somewhere along the coast next Friday!
Sv-Anui 
I love the many beautiful birds way out there, wow!! The wreck is amazing, I’m surprised that these is so much of it left today. I see a relative of Mr. Crabs from the kids cartoon show there too. 😂❤️ Safe travels back to the coast, guys. 🙏🏻😊
Hi John, yes there is a lot to see at this atoll. Aqua water and sea birds dominate, the only thing missing is decent snorkeling around the anchorages. But we can’t have everything!
You guys are so blessed to be there! A paradise all to yourselves! 😎🇦🇺
Indeed, but a paradise only when it is calm!
Ahh, that make a lot of sense, and Anui is a very long way from the coast, a bit scary!
Beautiful photos, as always, and what a vast expanse of reefs and cays! So glad you made it there and what a relief the birds weren’t roosting on the boat every night ❤️
I’m amazed at how much of the wreck has survived for over a century. What a remote place to be wrecked…
Safe sailing back to the mainland before the weather arrives. We’ve abandoned the whales at Rooney Point and are headed back for shelter too, but we only have a gentle day sail ahead of us.
Hi Helene, yes the state of the wreck was surprising. Pity I did not have more time and gentler conditions to fully explore. The atoll has been amazing, with superb scenery, lots of cays and birdlife. Only one disappointment: no coral whatsoever at the anchorages.
Very disappointing to hear there was no coral in the anchorages. With such a large distance to any other source of coral spawn it sounds like it will be a long time in recovery… if it can recover…
Was there much fish life to support all those birds?
Obviously enough for the birdies, just not a lot for us to see… did not even get the snorkel out other than at the wreck at Lihou. Plenty at Marion though. I think at Lihou you need the scuba gear for the huge bommies in the centre of the atoll, but then anchoring is ‘interesting’. Not for us free divers and on our own! And we made great use of our brand new bathyscope, thanks for the hint!
Wonderful new locations. Safe passage back before the winds pick up
Thanks Graham, it has been good but time to scurry back!
Anui such a little haven in the vastness of the ocean.
The fluffy chicks are the cutest, just make you smile.
Chook minding here, not cute but very productive.
Safe return to the coast to ready for the next adventure.
Thanks Ann, yes, we feel insignificant in the vastness of Lihou and it is rarely visited. The log books on some of the cays show evidence of this. First this year at Hermit Crab Islet, first and only at South West! The birds are the best! The behaviours of the chicks and parents have been really fun to observe.
Thanks guys, your wildlife pics just seem to get better and better! So many beautiful animals ….. Safe journey back to the mainland!
Thanks Elgar & Claire, the wildlife above the surface has been a highlight at Lihou. Time to escape before we get snotted!
Great photos. Interesting to learn about the history & the number of wrecks that you have come across.
Hi Mick, yes the atolls have claimed many vessels, particularly in the 1800s, but even more recently. When you are in the middle of the ocean the reefs and cays are difficult to spot! Hope your cruise is going well!
Just fantastic