This week we are taking you to several islands along the East Coast of Tasmania, to the magnificent Freycinet Peninsula, then sail north to St Helens. Be ready for lovely beaches, lots of wildlife and beautiful pink granite cliffs!
This is our progress along the coast. We are close to completing our circumnavigation of Tasmania.
This part of the East Coast is renowned for its beautiful shoreline, sandy beaches, rocky coves and pink granite cliffs. Its popularity does mean the anchorages are a lot more crowded than we like, but you know us by now, we don’t like squeezing in and do our best to stay away from huddles!
Maria Island
Maria Island consists of two land masses linked by an isthmus. We anchored in Shoal Bay, on the western side of the isthmus, a large bay which has the advantage of providing shelter in southerlies or northerlies depending on where you choose to drop the pick. We walked along the beach on both sides of the McRaes Isthmus, observing lots of birds: Oystercatchers, Pacific Gulls, Double-banded Plovers, White-faced Herons.
Another walk was to the Long Point Probation Station ruins, what remains of a convict penitentiary dating back to 1846. It was a bit ho-hum after Port Arthur, but a needed leg stretch and something to do! A point of interest yet sadness was seeing a wombat huddled in the corner of one of the cells, having very recently taken its last breath.
Iles des Phoques
The next day, we left Maria Island, bound for Schouten Island. The conditions were much lighter than forecast and yet again we had to motor-sail. To make the passage more interesting, we went via the Ile des Phoques, a rugged granite islet which as the French name suggests (Island of the Seals) is a seal colony. We spent some time idling close to the islet, watching the antics of the seals and birds. They are noisy: bellowing, barking, mooing and generally being very entertaining as they slither off the rocks, lull about in the water and investigate the tourists.
Schouten Island
Just south of the Freycinet Peninsula is another scenic island with interesting walks, in particular Bear Hill, a granite outcrop giving spectacular views of the surrounding coastline.
Murray, Wade and Chris climbed ‘the bear’ while Maree stayed on board. The track starts gently but once you reach the base of the granite rocks, it is straight up, scrambling over steep boulders. It is more akin to rock climbing than hiking, and not very well marked, but that’s ok, it gives you something to focus on instead of what bits of your body hurt! The views are sensational as you climb. Here is a gallery which will give you a feel for what we saw.
Upon our return on board, it was time to make a plan for what comes next, using the fickle weather which has been impacted by the remnants of cyclone Alfred up north. As usual we want it all, the iconic anchorages, the views, the wildlife, the fast sails, but the northerlies are making it difficult, and we are now on a schedule to get back north. Ultimately, the town of St Helens, 70nm further along the Tasmanian coast was our most practical destination for shelter, supplies and waiting for a weather window.
Freycinet Peninsula
But first, there was the Freycinet Peninsula, famous for its beautiful white sandy beaches, spectacular pink granite mountains and cliffs.
You cannot come to the Freycinet Peninsula without seeing the famous Wineglass Bay. The weather did not allow us to anchor there, but we did the next best thing. We dropped the pick on the opposite side at Hazards Beach, then from there we walked across the isthmus to the iconic bay.
This was our anchorage at Hazards Beach:
And this is Wineglass Bay from the air and from the beach. Unfortunately we had a very grey and drizzly day. We have included a shot from the lookout taken years ago on a sunny day, to do this beautiful place justice!
After our short stroll, we took Anui back to the southeast end of the Peninsula, anchoring along the beach you see on the satellite chart, before the Schouten Passage, to shorten the trip the next day to St Helens. It was a dawn start the next morning which allowed us to see the pink granite cliffs of the Freycinet in the early morning light and reach the bar entrance at St Helens at mid tide rising, 11 hours later after yet another motor sail!
Today as we post this, we are tucked in at St Helens, a town nestled 9 kms inland on the edge of Georges Bay.
We will restock here, take a breather, indulge in good coffee, a restaurant meal or two, and do our usual chores, while waiting a few days for the southerlies to return. See you next week, hopefully in the Bass Strait Islands and on our way back to the Gippsland Lakes!
Sv-Anui 
The end of a fascinating journey – thank you for having taken us along 🙂 ! Mostly good in all ways – hope you are now enjoying the last few days ere returning to the mainland. For me the main interest has been with the seals I have never seen except on film . , . and I loved the birds and was sorry to see the end of the wombat – sad . . . alone . . . life.
Not quite finished yet, Eha, we still have to get back to the Gippsland Lakes via the Furneaux Isles and drop our guests off. We’ll see how the weather behaves!
The seals and birds were fun. The wombat, not so, but it looked peaceful.
so nice to see you both safe and sound around Tassie and away from cyclones up North 👍😄
Hi Henry, yes a nice change from years at the Great Barrier Reef!
Not as remote and wild as the west coast but still very special. I love the walks around wineglass.
Hi Graham, yes the East Coast is quite spectacular and easier with family on board.
It seems St Helens is rarely on the ‘go to’ list by visiting yachts. We stayed there (on land) a few years ago. A pretty coastal town, secure anchorage & great last Tassie stop for supplies. I have enjoyed following your Tassie adventure. As always, great photos & info. Off to the GC in a few weeks to check on The Bossa after the cyclone. Crazeee weather up there!
Morning Amanda, the access to St Helens is difficult… a bar to cross, a very shallow, narrow winding passage for a few miles. Gotta work with the tide and be prepared to motor another 1.5 hours to get there from the bar!
Hope The Bossa is all safe and sound.
Very beautiful places as always, guys!! ❤️🇦🇺❤️
Indeed, John!
We’ve just finished walking along Maria Island, we started at Shoal Bay and camped the first night at Riedle Bay – just magic.
Very nice! Did you sail there?
Unfortunately not, private charter to Shoal Bay and hiking thereafter.
Hi Chris and Wade
Glad you have been enjoying your east coast journey. Beautiful part of Tasmania.
Our Seawind, Antidote, weathered ex-tropical cyclone Alfred on the Gold Coast ( at Hope Harbour Marina) unscathed, which was a great relief as we were a bit unsure of our preparations.
This has caused us to reflect on our ground tackle. We have a 22kg Sarka Excel galv anchor and 60m 8mm short link chain. However, the chain was only replaced about 12 months ago and is already deteriorating, with a lot of rust. The anchor is also rusting. Like Anui, Antidote is always in use and the anchor is used a lot ie most of the time, except for usually 1-2 days handover in marinas and occasionally public moorings.
just wondering what your experience with anchors and chain has been, whether you have had any problems with stray current causing electrolysis etc.
I am wondering whether we should invest in stainless steel anchor and chain.
would love to know your thoughts.
Meredith
Hi Meredith, you could get a stainless anchor and chain but be very careful with what you buy. The Chinese stainless steel tends not to be rated and does not last. Try to find rated stainless steel chain and be ready for the hit on the bank account! It is very expensive. It also is very hard on the gypsy and wears it down, which is an issue if it is bronze, less so if you have a stainless steel gypsy.
We use a galvanised anchor and chain, end to end the chain each year and regalvanise the lot on the third year which lasts for another two years. After that it’s time for new chain.
No issue with stray current and electrolysis as we don’t use marinas much and when we do we have a sacrificial anode we hang in the water.
Hope this helps! Give us a call if you want more info. See you somewhere on the way north!
Comment received from Sue Marlin:
Loved the birds, what a shame for the wombat, beautiful creatures. I hope it did not die of mange, doesn’t look like it. good shots of the whole of your trip. I am off to see my neighbour for a guiness for St Pats. All good here. you have really had such a good trip. Well done you two.
Have fun on the islands
Love Sue
Hi Sue, lots of different experiences this time.
Good to hear you are better! 🥰