Having been in harbours and rivers all along the coast of NSW, we were craving a bit of solitude and the sense of being away from it all. There are not that many places you can do this along this coast, but we had a goal in mind: to spend a few days around Broughton Island. So this is where we have been hiding, for a town and internet detox.
What is the attraction? Well for a start we had the place mostly to ourselves. The weather being rather iffy, few are crazy enough to sail there! It is only 8 miles north of Port Stephens but far enough when rain and strong winds are forecast. Some places are special, even in ordinary conditions and Broughton is one of these. It offers attractive seascapes, snorkelling, diving, bird watching, beaches and rugged volcanic hills.
We had a great sail from Forster under Big O, our spinnaker – one of those fast and smooth rides with the music going, the sun shining and us beaming from ear to ear.
Approaching Broughton Island
As soon as the anchor was down in Coal Shaft Bay, I donned the wetsuit, picked up the Olympus camera and dome lens, paddled ashore on the boogie board and snorkelled around the rocks at low tide. There was not a lot of fish but plenty of beautiful kelp. I still have a lot to learn about using the lens!
Chris paddling back
Only kelp in the cold water!
During the night, something hit the boat a few times. What the hell is this? We later found there is a seabird colony here –
Wedge-tailed Shearwaters. They return in their hundreds after dark to their burrows to feed their young. During subsequent nights we found quite a few were hitting the rigging. Two even came into the cockpit and needed to be helped off!
Wedge-tailed Shearwater about to be let out of the cockpit at night
The next day was forecast for a change of wind direction and much rain. As we were getting ready to move we witnessed something special: a
whale and calf sleeping just outside the bay – well, half asleep! Did you know they sleep by shutting down only half their brain? The other half stays awake at a low level of alertness. This attentive side is used to watch for dangers. It also signals when to rise to the surface for a fresh breath of air. After a couple of hours, they reverse the process, resting the active side of the brain and awaking the rested half. While in this state the whales look a bit like floating logs!
Sleeping beauty
We shifted to the north side of the island, to
Providence Beach, for the southerly blow. And although it was rock and rolly to start with, the swell settled down and there we stayed for 4 days, getting ashore between showers for beach wonders,
bird photography, walks across to various bays and snorkels at low tide. Just the perfect time, although in overcast weather. This is the kind of cruising we really enjoy.
We continued to worry about the shearwaters hitting the rigging every night. One hit the boat so hard it knocked itself out on the sugar scoop. We gently gathered it away from the edge so it would not fall in the water and wondered whether it would survive the night. We were very relieved the next morning when we found it had flown away. Wade being Wade had to complain: “The little fellow bled and crapped on the deck and flew off leaving a mess!” He would have been just as sad as me if that little shearwater had died.
Today, Tuesday, with the return of the northerlies, we are leaving our island paradise and heading for Swansea to reprovision. We still leave something to do here next time: diving to see the grey nurse sharks… a bright sunny day will be better for this adventure.
Here is a gallery showing you around the island and its bird life.
Leaving Coal Shaft Bay
Red-capped Dotterel running!
Sunset view from Coal Shaft Bay
Coal Shaft Bay just before the Southerly change
Brown Quail
Silver Gulls
Esmeralda Cove
Moody morning at Providence Bay
Sooty Oystercatcher
Ruddy Turnstone
Blue Bottle – only one needed to spoil your day!
Lots of these egg cases from the Port Jackson shark!
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Sv-Anui 
Great to hear from you and to see how everything has been going. Sounds like it was a good time for you both.
Yes, Broughton is a favourite so far. We enjoyed ourselves a lot. We have been struggling with data hence the silence! Need to increase our allowance!
Oh to rest from civilisation, to be content and loving your beautiful surroundings.
Hi Sue, yes this is the type of cruising we like. Lots of attractions even in overcast rainy weather.
Are the shear-waters related to the Phillip Island mutton birds? Their tendency to crash into things in the evenings seems very mutton birdy. Any surf possibilities on this Island?
Hi Craig!!These are Wedge-tailed shearwaters. They are a slightly different kind at Phillip Island: Short-tailed I think. But they are all migratory birds and all painted with the same “mutton bird” derogatory term. They are so beautiful to watch on the wing and really do shear the water!
No surf there! But Wade surfed 3 times at Coffs Harbour where it was small but fun!
Agree Broughton is one of those real wonders of the coast – a beautiful and restful spot. Just curious if you went into Esmeralda Cove and if so, what were your impressions?
Hi Terry, we did not take the boat in there, just walked in. The best spots seem to be taken by the private moorings.
You seem to be on ME time at last , good on you make the most of it
Hi Terry – yes taking it easy! It’s going well.