Our adventure at the Swain Reefs continued for another week although now by ourselves, since our friends had to go back to the mainland.
On our way to our next hop after Star Reef, we came across a Humpback Whale, quite a surprise so far offshore. We are not sure whether it was having fun or showing its displeasure at our two boats going past, but the tail slaps lasted for a very long time, well after we were gone. What a sight!
We were incredibly lucky to get to our favourite reef in the Swains: Hammer Reef. We spent two days relishing superb snorkeling in a complete glass out. Days like this are extremely rare. We felt blessed to see this healthy reef and for Helene and Graham to end their Swain adventure with us on a high.
Here are two aerial shots:
As you can see, each boat had its own patch of sand to anchor in. The ocean was like a mirror, reflecting our mast in the water even hundreds of meters away!
A few highlights from our snorkeling in this extensive and grand site:
On Sunday 21st, we waved goodbye to Roobi who had been with us for six weeks in all.
Anui took off in the opposite direction to a very special new spot for us: Crystal Blue Hole! Here is what it looks like from the air:
This was a nerve-racking reef entrance and anchorage, even for us, and we only stayed long enough for a drone flight. The lagoon is strewn with bommies and with the wind picking up earlier than forecast, we did not feel comfortable leaving Anui unattended while snorkeling in the abyss. It will be for another time, in totally calm conditions!
We returned to the protection of Hammer Reef for an extra day. It was fun to get a visit from a Roseate Tern, much to Bengie’s shock, and enjoy another snorkel! Here are a few shots of this.
Our next move was to Perfect Lagoon, an anchorage true to its name where we chose to sit out the next blow for several days. We were in 10m of water over sand, with 70 meters of chain out. This is well protected even in over 20 knot breeze and the 26 knot gusts we were getting! We hid there for the worst of the blow. Here is an aerial shot from last year as it was too windy to fly the drone this time.
We did try a snorkel among the bommies you see in the photo, but unfortunately they have been terribly damaged by the latest round of bleaching, leaving very little alive.
As we post this, we are on our way out of the Swain Reefs while there is a short reprieve to the blowy conditions.
Sv-Anui 
Wonderful whale encounter and some idyllic times out in the wide blue yonder. The moon shot is spectacular, how lucky to have had a fellow photographer there to capture it.
Thanks Ann, Yes both photographers exchanged lots of photos! We are back on the coast and feeling a little tired and flat, but what a superb time we have had.
So many beautiful photos, guys!! The second to last image is amazing, the reefs are the flat top of seamount, right? ❤️
Hi John, yes the reefs are the sandy/brown structures either surfacing or under the surface but visible from the air. They are made up of coral and can be a few to tens of meters deep. When healthy they are like a garden. When dead or badly damaged nothing much is left but bare substrate.
Thank you for this! The bleaching I have seen on this site is terrible. I wonder how high that seamount rises from its base.
Inside the lagoon is about 12m deep. Outside about 20. The top of the ‘pavement’ is often bare like this even if the walls are alive. So you are not always looking at bleaching.
Thank you for the details, I love this! I have to convert the Metric to Imperial, we still use both systems which is unfortunate. 🤭
Some great photos Chris, looks like you are having fun. ♥
Hi Maree – nice surprise to get your comment. Yes it has been particularly good.
What a very special experience! it must be difficult to return to the
‘real’ world after such superb isolation.
Chris & Suzanne
Discovery II
Hi Chris & Suzanne, yes you have got it in one. We are back to “civilisation” today, at Scawfell Island, feeling a little flat. Would you believe we had to answer a call on 16 from a guy anchored in the bay, ten minutes after dropping anchor: “Any boat in Scawfell, I have a dead battery”… gotta love those self-reliant coastal cruisers!
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the lovely photos.
I noticed you snorkeling with a spear. Are you doing a bit of hunting now too?
All the best, Murray
Just swapped the camera for the spear, Murray. We both took shots of each other.
Love that sunrise drone shot Chris. And Anui with the moon backdrop! Wow. More memorable adventures.
Hi Amanda, yes it is those special moments in gorgeous isolation and with a good dose of luck!
Benji and the tern picture deserves a caption! Can’t help but wonder what’s going through Benji’s mind.
And the ‘abyss’ …… giant blue hole in the reef?? Have you dived into it before?
Bengie was being told ‘no’ at the time as she was looking at the tern intently and her little paw was very tempted to biff it! Suggestions for the caption welcome!
The Blue Hole, no, haven’t dived there but wanted to… next time!
Pics are lovely, you sure are having fun out there. I just watched the French Olympics open ceremony. I loved Cerne Di
Hiya Sue, we are a bit out of the loop with the news I am afraid, but good you enjoyed the ceremony!
Enjoyed reading about your travels thru Swains. We were contemplating an excursion from Percy Is, out to the western fringe of the reef, Paul and Storm Reef. Do you have any comments on this part of the Swains? We are travelling in a Monohull sailing yacht with 2mt draft.
thanks
SV Minnow
Hi Stephen, thanks for subscribing to our site. We have anchored at Storm Reef and marked Paul’s Reef but not stopped there. For some of the Western anchorages, you might like to check two of our posts from our November 2023 visit: http://www.sv-anui.com/2023/11/03/pain-claim-swain and http://www.sv-anui.com/2023/11/10/swain-reefs-foray
These two posts cover Storm, Perfect Lagoon, Mystery, Return and Big Sandy reefs. Herald Prong No2 (Pops Reef) is also worth a look covered in a previous visit.
You will find more info in our Cruise Stories page. Just have a look around.
Although sailing on a cat, we rarely anchor in less than 4m. Most of the time at the Swains you can find a spot over clear sand in 4-8m. So your draft should not be an issue. Don’t hesitate to contact us if you want a chat.