Seven days at Marion Reef, four of which in totally calm conditions, have enabled us to explore this beautiful Coral Sea Atoll with our friends on Havachat. What an experience it has been, with a few firsts for us and many for Will and Rochelle!
Here is a screen shot of the atoll from Navionics, showing our anchorages:
Imagine being 210nm from shore (about 420kms), anchored in the middle of the ocean, spending days in less than 5 knots of breeze. The water is crystal clear, there is 50m underwater visibility, the air temperature is around 30oC, the water temperature is a balmy 24oC in the middle of winter. That is our Marion Reef experience. Of course, blissful conditions don’t last, and we are now in the more typical trade wind weather with 20-25 knots of breeze, but it is manageable and we have decided to stay rather than beat a retreat to the coast.
Here are a few aerial views of the various anchorages we stayed out: Brodie Cay, Long Reef, Paget Cay and Carola Cay. Our favourite and where we have been hiding in the stronger wind is Paget Cay with its series of meandering sand banks and rock slabs.
Our daily snorkeling sessions have been a mixed bag. As is often the case at the Coral Sea Atolls, the reefs get affected by wild storms and repeated bleaching and have limited opportunities to regenerate due to their remoteness from healthier reefs. So you can get wide variations of coral conditions: patches of life and colour, often brought about by expanses of soft corals which establish themselves over bare substrate, and at the other extreme totally dead, shapeless grey blocks that look like concrete. In the main the best coral can be found on the central pinnacles in the atoll, but you need scuba gear for them as they are at 10 to 12 meters depth. We still managed to find a few pleasing spots and amazingly the fish life was good so we got to see species that delighted us.
Here is a selection of our underwater shots. Check the captions for information on each photo.
One of the highlights of coral atolls is the birdlife. Brown boobies, masked boobies, noddies, black-napped terns, frigate birds abound. The boobies in particular nest on the permanent cays and raise their young there.
Here are a few endearing photos.
But the birds are also a curse. Each evening, the air raid descends on our two boats. The sky is black with flying birds – an incredible sight! And the raucous! There are fights and much squawking for roosting space at the bows and worse, on the spreaders and the boom bag as they are all jostling for their little bit of real estate! There is nothing we can do to deter them from landing on the boats. By dawn, they have all gone, but left their calling cards. You can guess what our morning ritual is about: cleaning their horrible smelly piles of guano!
We have now been on our Coral Sea Atolls voyage for 11 days and with the wind easing, we left Marion yesterday and have just reached the Lihou atoll, 110nm further NE. Unfortunately we are now on our own as Will and Rochelle have been called back to the mainland with major work dramas and left us two days ago. It is disappointing not to have a buddy boat for the rest of the trip, but life goes on and we’ll manage, as we always do. See you at Lihou next Friday!
Sv-Anui 
It looks amazing! I can only imagine the scrubbing required in the morning with all those birds…
Bummer for Havachat that they’ve had to return to the coast but at least you’ve made it to Lihou. Look forward to the photos next week ❤️
Hi Helene, bummer it is, but we had a great time while Havachat was with us and as you say, we have made it to Lihou and will be here for a while! The passage was rock and rolly, the arrival spectacular if a wee bit scary, and now we are at Hermit Crab Islet, resting! Miss your company though!
Well done. You have indeed found paradise. A special experience that very few cruisers would get to experience. All the effort of preparation, planning and Getting there has paid off.
Thanks Graham… all worth the effort… those rare calm days were just bliss.
Wow, such a dreamy place to be! Beautiful photography, guys, I’m sorry about the scat problem though. I wonder if a net over the boat would help, but what a hassle that would be! Safe travels! 🇦🇺😎
A net over the boat… not really! We just have to find a vegetated cay to hide behind, then they have a better roosting alternative in our experience.
That makes a lot of sense. I was sitting in the backyard for a long while tonight and enjoyed how all the different bird calls slowly stopped the darker it got.
Yes, we are now actually enjoying the bird life too, lots of fluffy little chicks on the islet and lots of calls at dawn and dusk.
Very nice!
love the blogs, some co-ordinates for us fellow sailors would be great
Hey Russ, get Peter Sayre’s book: “Australia’s Coral Sea Islands & Marine Park”. It is our bible!
yep, already have this thanks
Then you are all set. Just need an adventurous spirit and the weather.
It always amazes me how you seem to attract extraordinary experiences.
All the best for the next part of this voyage.
Hi Bill, adventure seekers tend to do that. You know how it goes: you just have to take a chance and grab the opportunity with both hands. We are now at Lihou, and glad the Marion to Lihou passage in 25 knots is behind us! Now anchored behind a vegetated cay and hoping the birdies roost there rather than on Anui!
Take care out there on your own ♥
Thanks Maree, yes, a bit sad and more stressful, but you know us, we just keep doing what we want to do regardless.
You are certainly adventurous! And you must feel very chuffed you’ve managed a third visit. Shame Havachat had to depart. Two fav’ pics – the clown triggerfish. I do love these. I first saw one in New Cal’ but I’ve only ever seen one here on the Qld coast. Such an amazing looking fish. And the masked booby family. Great pic. We are hoping for another outer reef visit next week. Enjoy!
Hi Amanda, we are very happy with what we are achieving with our offshore cruising this year. It was good while it lasted with Havachat… but a pain they have had to dissert us! Haven’t had too many successes with buddy boats to date, Roobi being the exception! Mind you, they would not have liked the passage to Lihou and the entrance into the atoll via an exceedingly narrow dog leg in 25 knot winds. One of the rare times when I felt the need to wear a life jacket!
Hi Chris and Wade,
Thanks for the photos and words again!
More power to you both cleaning up after those birdies take advantage of the temporary roost you have brought them.
All the best, Murray
Hi Murray, yes the poop cleaning routine takes the shine off the offshore cruising! We are hoping now that we are anchored behind a vegetated cay at the Lihou atoll, the birds will have suitable roosting spots ashore and won’t bother us!
Seems to me a bit of poop swabbing of decks, a small price to pay for the amazing wildlife experiences! Us mere mortals can but dream of what you’ve seen and touched. Thanks for sharing guys! Meanwhile, we’re lazing in our caravan on the Angus coast, pouring rain, on our maiden voyage. Forecast is good later, for a bit of bird watching from the cliff tops…. we live in hope!
Hi Elgar and Claire, yes you are right… a small price to pay. Enjoy your trip on the coast. Hope you see lots of bird life… puffins maybe?
Yep , might see puffins, there are breeding colonies on this coast.
We would love to see puffins – We’ll have to make it up there one day!
Hi guys.
Great photos, great to read & look at your images as we sit here having a drink or two on our cruise ship off the coast of Japan. Regarding the cleaning of the bird poop I have seen a battery operated pressure washer Ryobi not sure of its performance maybe something that would make the job easier.
Cheers
Mick & Lyn.
Hi Mick & Lyn, great to hear you managed to get away. Enjoy the cruise. The pressure washer is a great idea… We have at last had a night without pooping visitors. As we thought a vegetated island is the way to go as the birdies prefer that to our boat!
What an amazing place and adventure your are having. The opening paragraph says it all really!
Yes it is very special, Mick. By the way we know you are having a wonderful adventure of your own. Will take the time to comment soon when we have had a chance to catch up on your posts.
Way out in the Coral Sea. Fantastic. Just focus on where you are at
Comment received from SUE MARLIN
What a shame your companions had to return to the real world. Life goes on but hopefully they may be able to join you again on another trip. Continue with the fun. Loved the pictures. Oh boy the birds are messy. your boat keeping never ends when they are around.
Hiya Sue, the birds are SO BAD here for some reason! The mess is unbelievable… and the smell! Still having fun though, even though it is a bit of a downer to not have Havechat cruising with us anymore.