After spending three weeks in the Bass Strait Islands, we have crossed Banks Strait and have been cruising along the north coast of Tasmania, heading west.

Northern Tasmania is very unlike the islands and coves of the Furneaux Group, with different scenery and geology. Instead of mountainous landscapes with bays dominated by granite boulders covered in orange lichen, we have low lying shorelines, long sandy beaches bordered by black basalt also stained with orange, and Jurassic dolerite escarpments.  

We have been getting the right conditions to progress westward, so are doing little hops as shown on this map, stopping at protected spots, a few of which we had not been to before. You might not believe this, given the length of this post and number of photos, but what follows are the highlights. So as usual, make yourself comfortable, and we hope you enjoy our first week in Tasmania proper!

Banks Strait Crossing to Forster Inlet

First there was the hop from Clarke Island, across Banks Strait to Forster Inlet. Banks Strait can be a little mean if you don’t time your crossing with the right tide for the wind direction, as there is a lot of current rushing through with eddies and overfalls in wind against tide conditions. So in easterlies you want an incoming tide, and in westerlies an outgoing tide. It all worked together well for us and the passage across was fast, helped by the current!

We spent a couple of days at Forster Inlet, a spot which is dominated by over 50 wind turbines. The wind obviously can blow hard along these parts, but it was calm for our stay.

We walked along the shore and to the point near Cape Portland, finding remnants of a stone hut and old farming machinery.

The Croppies

Our next stop was at the Croppies, a new anchorage for us some 10nm further west. It was a nice surprise with its sandy beaches – good for Bengie too who enjoys her early morning strolls – the black basalt outcrops brightened by orange lichen, and the opportunity for a dive at low tide the next day.

The underwater life was fascinating. This is part of the Southern Reef, a system of interconnected reefs that spans the southern coast of continental Australia and Tasmania. Although the Southern Reef receives a lot less attention that its world-famous neighbor, the Great Barrier Reef, there is much to look at with lots of fish and lovely seaweed. The hues are very different to the colours we see in the tropics and so are the textures.

We got a small feed of abalones. Wade did the fishing, ab knife and measuring gauge in hand, Chris the photographing, and Trevor guarded the boat, not keen on a bracing dip! Dinner was rather tasty. We like to slice the abs in ever so thin slivers and briefly fry them in different condiments:  lemon and ginger, chili and lemongrass, garlic and parsley. With a side salad and a glass of Prosecco, it certainly gave us a taste for more! And the sunset was the colourful end to a satisfying stay.

West Head – Tamar River Mouth

Another interesting anchorage and a familiar one, was past the entrance to the Tamar River to West Head. When we first arrived, it was very overcast though quite atmospheric seen through the drone camera.

It later brightened up and we went for a lovely walk around the headland, serenaded by the cicadas! In the first image of the slideshow you can see the dolerite cliffs, which are widespread in Tasmania. These were formed when magma was injected as sheets and dykes, cooled and slowly crystallized, causing vertical cracks that created polygonal columns a bit like organ pipes.

George Town – Tamar River

After three weeks on the go, it was time for chores, so we moved up river from the heads of the Tamar to the small settlement of George Town on the advice of a friend, for reprovisioning, refueling and laundry. The jetty there was barely long enough for us! This is what this tight but handy spot looked like from the air. Anui attracted a lot of attention and questions from the locals!

Our morning exit out of the Tamar was peaceful at slack water and in nil wind, creating perfect reflections.

Port Sorell

Our next hop took us to beautiful Port Sorell, 18nm further west, where we spent a few days. We were escorted by a pod of dolphins along the way, a delight for Trevor who has now ticked off a few items on his must-see list: penguins, dolphins, sea eagles, albatross…

Port Sorell draws nature lovers and fishermen, as well as yachties like us, with plenty of foreshore walks, beautiful beaches, large sand dunes and the estuary of the Rubicon River.

At low tide the water disappears leaving only tiny rivulets and miles of soft sand and mud as far as the eye can see. This is why you need to be careful where you anchor!

The views are spectacular, the pace is relaxed and the feel serene, even in the rain and thunderstorms which came on our second day there.

Onto Stanley and beyond

As we post this, we are sailing to Stanley, 60nm away, our last stop on the north coast of Tassie, before we position ourselves for our descent south along the wild West Coast at the first weather opportunity. Stanley is also where we will be dropping Trevor off who has commitments on the mainland later this month. We are sad he can’t stay on board for the West Coast. He has been good company and a great guest to have on Anui, joining in to cook, lending a hand with a few maintenance tasks, and with his own family history project to occupy the down time. We have enjoyed having him on board for over a month and he had fun island hopping with us, sailing, hiking and relaxing, all this without a hint of sea sickness, a first for him. Guests who are no trouble, really contribute and don’t need to be entertained are gold. You are welcome back any time, Trev!

Join us again next week hopefully for a new phase in our voyage: going south along the exposed West coast of Tasmania. Nothing between it and South America!